Wishes for a Trip to Fukuoka

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“Sho” me the belly

Earlier this year, Herouth shared with us the Tanabata festival – where rikishi participated in the ritual of writing down one’s wishes to be hung from a bamboo. While the festival usually takes place on or around July 7, the rikishi largely wrote their wishes for what was then the upcoming campaign (and in many cases for life in general: my two personal favourites being Ishiura’s desire to create more children and Chiyotairyu’s “I need money” plea).

I’ve been fortunate to have some amazing experiences in sumo this year – from Golden Week to the Jungyo, meeting the legendary Konishiki and conducting some fun interviews for the site. As we head into the final honbasho of 2018, I’d like to share some of my wishes for the upcoming tournament. The Kyusho basho in Fukuoka will complete my “set” of all four honbasho locations. I think it’s fair to say it’s also – at least for westerners – probably the more obscure and difficult location to reach, owing to its distance from most major entry ports to Japan.

Reception for Local Heroes

There’s no question that sumo fans have their favourites, and the likes of Mitakeumi and Endo notably have massive cheering sections most days of each basho. Watching the Kyushu basho in past years on TV however, I’ve noticed that the locals from that part of the country – who aren’t all typically fan favourites – tend to get a fantastic reception in their “home” tournament. Of course, Yoshikaze’s head-first “berzerker” style is beloved by sumo fans worldwide, but I’m looking forward to experiencing first hand how the local crowd will receive #BigGuns Shohozan and Kotoshogiku. While it’s probably too much to wish for the famous back-belly bend from the former Ozeki, he’s not getting any younger and this may be one of the last chances (if not the last) to see him close to his hometown crowd.

Yatai

It’s impossible to talk about sumo culture without talking about food culture. In Tokyo, you can get anything you want, most anytime that you want it. In Nagoya, for me, well, it’s all about the katsu. Osaka is the nation’s kitchen and incredible delights of okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and shockingly, the best bowl of ramen I’ve ever had are within 3 minutes of sumo’s Kansai venue. But Fukuoka has a unique experience I’m looking to enjoy, which are the “Yatai” food stalls which line the city. Each stall has around 5 or 6 indoor seats and gets built up every day before being taken down every night, with vast ranges in the types of cuisine on offer. NHK World did a good piece on these Yatai which I highly recommend, as it has helped open my eyes to what promises to be a delicious local flavour I can add to my sumo experience.

Performance

As we touched on in this week’s Tachiai podcast (audio here, video here), I’m looking for some big results in Kyushu: An Ozeki yusho challenge. The return of low ranked Maegashira snaffling sansho special prizes. Storming returns to form from the local rikishi. Abi to continue to discover his potential for greatness if he can harness the reach of those long arms to go with his superstar personality and dexterity. Ishiura to henka Tokushoryu in the Juryo playoff and Tomokaze to join Enho, Wakatakakage and Mitoryu in the 2018 class of new sekitori to consolidate their status as the next class of top professionals.

But most of all, I’m looking forward to the experience of just being there. As many of our readers – and Bruce, from his last minute jaunt to Aki – can attest, there is nothing like the atmosphere and excitement of live sumo, and a day out at the arena with thousands of your newest, bento-box munching, shikona-laden-towel waving, chanko-devouring friends. Hakkeyoi!

Kyushu Day 1 Highlights

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Enough Oshidashi To Go Around

A good start to the Kyushu basho, with an odd prevalence of push-out wins (Oshidashi / 押し出し). Final bout featured Tamawashi (Komusubi) dispatching Yokozuna Harumafuji with ease.

It was great to see Hakuho in action once more, but today’s bout was not a great example of his fighting form. Goeido announced to the world he takes his Yokozuna run seriously, as once again we saw his total, near reckless commitment to offense, and some really nice work by my favorite:  Yoshikaze!

In Juryo Osunaarashi won, but Amakaze, Daieisho and Ura lost – as the second division train-wreck seems to have continued from Aki

A lot of the rikishi looked off balance and unprepared for their matches. Quite a change from most of the prior tournaments.

Notable highlights

Toyohibiki defeats Gagamaru – This was not much of a match, as Gagamaru looked weak and off balance from the Tachiai

Sokokurai defeats Ichinojo – Ok, we saw the smaller Ichinojo, but he looked weak and quite out of his element. He offered token resistance to Sokokurai, but Sokokurai kept the pressure up and just walked the big Mongolian out

Hokutofuji defeats Daishomaru – Fast match with some early slaps and a rapid exit by Daishomaru

Ikioi defeats Myogiryu – Myogiryu tried to pull Ikioi out of the ring, and Ikioi obliged by pushing Myogiryu out first. Myogiryu looked off balance from the start.

Takarafuji defeats Nishikigi – In contrast to many of the other men in action today, these two showed up ready to wrestle. It was a strength match with Takarafuji having the upper hand for most of the bout. Excellent strength and resistance from Nishikigi though.

Shodai defeats Kotoyuki – This is more like it. Excellent slapping / pushing match! Kotoyuki opened very strong, throwing Shodai back, and nearly out. Shodai recovered his balance but was back to the tawara, but Kotoyuki was off balance and Shodai pulled him into the spectators.

Takayasu defeats Endo – Endo was completely out-matched. Takayasu stayed low and just powered Endo out of the ring. There were some doubts about his readiness, but todays bout was completely one-sided.

Yoshikaze defeats Terunofuji – Yoshikaze took command straight from the tachiai, and never let up. Terunofuji made one attempt to throw Yoshikaze, but Yoshikaze countered by picking up Terunofuji and lifting him out of the ring, for a really welcome Tsuridashi

Kisenosato defeats Aoiyama – Aoiyama was completely out-classed, and Kisenosato seems to be back to his winning ways. It was over in seconds as Kisenosato just smoothly pushed the Bulgarian directly out in the blink of an eye.

Goeido defeats Tochiozan – Goeido maintains the form he showed during Aki. Near reckless commitment to pure offense! He overpowered Tochiozan who actually put up a solid effort, nearly pulling to Ozeki down moments before losing. Goeido is deadly serious about his Yokozuna run.

Hakuho defeats Okinoumi – Okinoumi is clearly injured, it’s kind of heartbreaking to watch him. Hakuho actually did not show strong sumo today, but instead pulled Okinoumi down early in the match. Is the Yokozuna trying to ease back into is sport?

Tamawashi defeats Harumafuji – The day finished with an upset as Tamawashi fairly easily dispatched Yokozuna Harumafuji. Harumafuji was off balance at the tachiai, and Tamawashi simply turned him, and marched him to the edge.

Fukuoka Basho: Upcoming Events

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Burying of salt and other tokens of good luck under the surface of the dohyo

If you are lucky enough to be in Japan and are looking for something to do or somewhere to go over the next month, I would encourage a serious look at Fukuoka for the sumo tournament.

Obviously, the action starts on November 13th and runs through the 27th. However, there are a few events beforehand that would be great to watch:

Hakuho Back In Action

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The 69th Yokozuna, Hakuho, rejoined the Aki Jungyo when the tour got to Kyoto on the 22nd. By all accounts he is still not up to full fighting form, but he intends to compete in the November tournament in Kyushu. Hakuho has clearly lost a good amount of mass, and there seems to be a bit of distress in the Japanese sumo press over his reduction.

Personally, I think there are a handful of Rikishi who might be able to up their performance with even a modest weight loss, and it’s excellent that Hakuho is taking the lead here.

Below a clip from twitter of him training with some of the other Rikishi on tour, looking good and likely for Fukuoka.