A Morning at Tatsunami-beya: Watching the Professionals

One of the lesser-known benefits of joining the Tatsunami International Fan Club is that it includes access to observe asa-geiko, the stable’s morning practice. I had joined the Fan Club mainly to get a regular banzuke and because I thought it would be interesting. Once I started planning a trip to Japan, I came to the realization that membership also came with this perk! Hence, I reached out early in March to schedule a trip to view the practice. They told me to get back to them in May, which I dutifully did.

However, they indicated my preferred dates were likely in the “rest period” after the May tournament. My disappointment faded when they got back to me a few weeks later saying that we could attend the first practice! My family and I were excited for the opportunity, especially after our own sumo training experience with former top division wrestler Kyokutaisei. Having spent time doing even a small fraction of the exercises ourselves, we arrived with a new appreciation for what happens inside a professional sumo stable.

Gifts, Gratitude, and a Disappointing Start

As is customary when visiting someone’s home in Japan, we wanted to arrive bearing gifts. We brought large chocolate bars for all of the rikishi and stable staff, a bottle of whiskey for the oyakata, and a supply of Maryland’s finest culinary export, Old Bay seasoning, for the chanko-ban.

When we arrived, however, it quickly became apparent that the stable was having an exceptionally busy morning. Tokokei was juggling multiple responsibilities and, in addition to his normal duties, was tasked with receiving visitors and finding seats for everyone. The gifts clearly caught him by surprise. Before we had much chance to explain what they were or who they were intended for, he hurried them off to a back room and returned to managing the growing crowd.

Within a few minutes, the keiko-ba filled with roughly fifty additional visitors who had come as part of a commercial tour group. The room became packed, and we found ourselves seated toward the back. While that limited our ability to take photographs, a more professional photographer who had arrived earlier and captured plenty of excellent images of the session.

For us, the biggest disappointment was not where we sat, but rather that we never really had an opportunity to properly thank the stable for allowing us to attend or personally present the gifts. Near the end of practice, I briefly managed to catch Tokokei’s attention long enough to explain that the whiskey was intended for the oyakata and that the Old Bay was a kind of Maryland equivalent to shichimi togarashi. Given everything he was dealing with that morning, the conversation lasted only a few moments.

Afterward, we were uncertain whether the gifts had actually reached their intended recipients. Despite a couple of inquiries, we received no acknowledgment and eventually had to follow up several times before receiving confirmation that everything had indeed been delivered.

What made this stand out was that it was so different from my experiences with Japanese friends, colleagues, and personal events. Even our later experience in Kyoto, for example, where we participated in a tea ceremony held in a private home as part of a paid cultural tour. The Kyoto hosts had similarly  never before received gifts from foreign visitors, yet their reaction was remarkably warm and appreciative. We left feeling as though a genuine personal connection had been made.

For that reason, the experience at Tatsunami-beya felt unusual rather than disappointing. My impression was not that anyone intended to be dismissive. Rather, the stable appeared entirely focused on running a busy practice session and accommodating a large influx of visitors. The fan club program itself also seemed relatively new, and perhaps international members bearing gifts were simply outside the normal routine.

In the end, we were pleased to learn that the gifts had been received. Still, because gift-giving and expressions of gratitude are such visible parts of Japanese hospitality, we had hoped for the opportunity to personally hand them over, explain their significance, and know they had arrived without having to seek confirmation afterward. That small missed connection was perhaps the only misstep in what was otherwise a fascinating morning at the stable.

An Immediate Reminder of Our Own Training

We entered during the middle of practice and instantly recognized many of the warm-up exercises we had learned from Kyokutaisei. The familiar shiko, suriashi, teppo, and stretching routines gave us a tiny glimpse into the structure behind professional sumo training.

This was the first practice following the May tournament. Two weeks had passed, but some wrestlers were still visibly dealing with the accumulated wear and tear of fifteen days of competition. Others looked to be in phenomenal condition.

The contrast between how my family and I felt after a single hour of amateur training and what these wrestlers did every day was staggering.

Watching them train was less like observing athletes and more like watching Olympians prepare for competition.

As someone who used to carry significant extra weight, I found myself especially impressed. Exercise is difficult enough when carrying substantial mass. Watching these rikishi repeatedly hurl hundreds of pounds across the dohyo made me wonder just how powerful their cardiovascular systems must be. Their hearts and lungs are extraordinary.

Rhythm Everywhere

One theme became apparent throughout the morning: rhythm.

Some rikishi moved with astonishing speed and grace. What surprised me most was that size was not the determining factor. Injury status seemed to matter far more than body weight. Several wrestlers were absolutely dancing across the dohyo.

The movements were fluid and efficient. There was flow. There was timing.

Even outside of training bouts, rhythm appeared everywhere. The rikishi sweeping the dohyo worked in coordinated patterns that were almost hypnotic to watch. During suriashi drills, many placed their feet in nearly identical spots, moving forward into what seemed like the same footprints over and over again.

The repetition created its own kind of beauty.

The Collective and the Individual

Another thing that stood out was the constant low-level care the wrestlers showed one another.

On the edges of the room, several appeared to be doing what looked remarkably like physical therapy. Some rolled balls under their feet. Others stretched shoulders and backs. Many taped injuries.

Rikishi routinely helped each other apply tape, adjust supporters, or check painful areas.

There was an unmistakable sense of collective effort.

If you’re expecting the hyper-dramatic atmosphere of Netflix’s Sanctuary, you may be surprised. The stable felt much more cooperative than confrontational.

Yet the paradox was obvious.

The training environment is communal, but the sport itself is ultimately individual. Every wrestler must step onto the dohyo alone.

When the Real Work Begins

Although training had been underway when we arrived, actual sparring didn’t begin until roughly an hour after many wrestlers had entered the keiko-ba.

The moment it started, the energy changed completely.

Every tachiai produced a thunderous crack. Not a slap. Not a bump.

A crack.

The type of collision that feels capable of knocking the wind out of you even as a spectator.

Sometimes wrestlers slammed into the walls with such force that the building itself seemed to shake. More than once I found myself wondering how the structure survives daily exposure to this punishment.

The format resembled a king-of-the-hill rotation. Winners remained on the dohyo until they could no longer continue. The privilege of choosing the next opponent belonged to them. Often several hopeful challengers would step forward requesting a match.

There was absolutely no idling.

Everyone not currently fighting remained active. Some stretched. Others lifted weights. Some drank water. Everyone watched closely, preparing for their turn.

The sekitori were present, including Ōkaryū and Meisei, though Hōshōryū was absent that morning (still nursing the injury that took him out of the May tournament) and the top men were not immediately participating in the same manner as the younger rikishi.

Perhaps the most surprising observation came once fatigue set in.

By around 9:10 a.m., nearly everyone was breathing heavily. Sweat dripped from faces. Eyes were visibly stinging. The room felt increasingly hot.

And yet the pace increased. The deeper they went into practice, the faster many of them became.

Logic suggests exhaustion should produce slower movements. Instead, something else happened. Technique emerged. Efficiency emerged. Timing sharpened.

At times the bouts looked close to hon-basho quality. More than once it became difficult not to cheer.

One tachiai was so violent that Ōkaryū emerged with a bloody nose. He plugged it with tissues and continued training without drama. Just back to work.

The speed, balance, foot placement, and weight transfer are remarkable. A tiny mistake can mean the difference between victory and defeat.

This probably explains why so many rikishi seemed obsessed with footwork and why they repeatedly practiced moving through exactly the same positions.

The Only Rest Is More Work

The only meaningful breaks occurred when the dohyo was swept.

Occasionally younger wrestlers passed along some “chikara mizu” or “power water” to those who continued to bout. Otherwise, activity never stopped.

The atmosphere around the stable remained remarkably quiet throughout much of this. The foreigners were listening in on their translation headphones. A few of their kids were bored.

The dominant sounds were heavy breathing, feet scraping clay, bodies colliding, and occasional instructions.

By 9:40 a.m., the heat inside the room had become intense even for spectators. For the rikishi, it was simply another training day.

Final Thoughts

The greatest value of visiting a stable after you’ve tried even a little sumo yourself is perspective. Before training with Kyokutaisei, I admired professional rikishi.

After training, and after watching Tatsunami-beya’s wrestlers prepare for another tournament, I respect them on an entirely different level.

What looks slow on television is much faster in person – even training bouts that are for practice and experience, not for the win-loss record in hon-basho. What looks exhausting on television does not even begin to capture reality.

A few days of amateur sumo gave us the reference point. A morning at Tatsunami-beya showed us the summit. And from the back of a crowded room, watching men get faster as exhaustion overtook them, it was impossible not to appreciate just how extraordinary these elite athletes really are.  This appreciation was the gift we received from Tatsunami.

Andy’s Trip to Japan 2024: Part III

In past posts, I have given a bit of background to our trip. In Part I, I talked about why now is a good time to go if you are on the fence or have not been before. In Part II, I briefly mentioned different areas of Tokyo with a focus on the Ryogoku area and why the Koto and Sumida areas are good “home base” areas for sumo fans. In this post, I will finally get down to business and start talking about our trip.

The top item on my list has been meeting with Honda Masataka of Ekoin temple. I was scouring through the Kyokai’s financial reports one weekend, as one does, and I noticed a few small property holdings listed among their assets. In particular was an entry for a tiny speck of Tokyo with the title, “Chikarazuke”. When I looked it up, it was a stone monument, like the Ozeki and Yokozuna stones. Except this monument is right down the street at a little temple called, Ekoin.

The Ryogoku Pilgrimage

Closed Kokugikan

For those sumo fans making their pilgrimage to Ryogoku, the arena at Kokugikan will likely be top of your agenda. It’s Sumo HQ, where all of the Tokyo-based tournaments take place, home to the Sumo Kyokai’s museum and gift shop, Sumo School and the community clinic, and it also hosts many amateur tournaments and non-basho events, like the retirement ceremonies of top wrestlers.

However, it’s not always open.

So, what else is in the area? There are a number of heya, the closest of which is Nakamura-beya which is basically a block over from the McDonalds. Speaking of Maccas, my son and I learned that there actually is a sumo-worthy reason to go to a McDonalds in Japan: macarons. They’re not exactly Pierre Hermes – which you can find in the Mitsukoshi Department Store – but still tasty and much less expensive. 190 yen each! There’s also the Chanko Kirishima and Ami offers up Isegahama-style chanko.

The spot that I would like to highlight and to get onto every fans’ list of Ryogoku sites to visit is the Ekoin Temple. This location is significant because the sumo that we know today evolved from sumo competitions held here at the Temple. As I mentioned above, it is home to the Chikarazuka. This Sumopedia episode from the NHK briefly mentions it and its importance to the history of sumo.

Getting There

Finding it is easy. If you come out of the main gate at JR’s Ryogoku station, Kokugikan is on the right. But most of the restaurants, hotels and business-happenings in Ryogoku are to the left. Cross under the railroad tracks and the road that runs in front of Kokugikan basically dead-ends at the Temple. Given the large buildings around it, though, the Temple entrance might seem a bit “non-descript.”

While I like walking around at night, I came back during the day.

Once you walk through the front gate, there’s a rather lengthy driveway which takes you to the main building. As you approach the building, pay special attention to the monument on your left. That was a gift from the Sumo Kyokai and is referred to as the Chikara-dzuka, or stone/mound of power (力塚). Rikishi go there to pray for strength.

Also on the left, a bit further in are stone memorials, those for individuals (including a Yokozuna or two), as well as larger monuments to past disasters. Historically, when a disaster struck Japan the government would send remains of the victims to be interred here. That practice ended after World War II and the effort to separate church from state. So, there is no memorial marker here for the earthquake this year, the earthquake and tsunami of 2011, the Kobe earthquake, etc.

History and Significance

You see, this temple was established after the great Meireki fire of 1657. Remains were sent here and the temple workers would tally and inter the dead. The total number of dead from that disaster is up to 100,000 people. Afterwards, the site hosted kanshin sumo events. These were very popular and became a regular thing and sumo tournaments were hosted here in temporary structures, built for the tournament. (Doesn’t that sound like the process of re-construction we know and love today?) In 1909, they moved into a fixed structure, “the Old Kokugikan” here.

The temple has many Ukiyo-e prints of the time, like the one on the NHK video. You will notice the popularity of the events. The folks at Ekoin would count the streams of people coming over the adjacent bridge to watch the sumo and gage its popularity, and how much they need to prepare. As you can see from these pictures, the events hosted many people, some people even being hoisted onto their friends’ shoulders to watch the action.

The bridge in the background is the famous Ryogoku bridge. That has been featured in many ukiyo-e artworks of the Edo and Meiji eras. For fans of ukiyo-e, it is worth noting that the Hokusai museum is just down the road and a few streets over is Hokusai-dori. Apparently, he was a product of Sumida-ku. One wonders if he was one of these massive throngs of people. Or if, like so many of us today, he struggled to find tickets to get in!

Just inside the building there is a foyer or genkan with a great dragon emblazoned on the ceiling, very similar to this one, featured on Tokiwayama-beya fabric from a few years ago. You’ll notice what looks like wooden lattice-work on the ceiling. Go stand in the middle of the room, under the dragon’s head, and clap. The echo will intensify and reverberate creating this wild effect where it sounds like many people clapping. Your friends, standing a few feet away will not hear the echos. Only those in the center will hear it.

Beyond this entryway is the room where services are held. There’s a lot of ornate decorations and an amazing statue of buddha and what looks like a framed mizuhikimaku over on the left. When I asked, “This is beautiful, may I take a picture?” Our host replied, “if I don’t know what you’re doing, I won’t know.” He then left the room and returned a few minutes later. (I shyly took one quick photo.)

Mizuhikimaku (水引幕)

I mentioned that the room had what looked like a framed mizuhikimaku. “Mizuhikimaku” are curtains that separate our world from the sacred world. Different colors have different meaning. White or black signify death. Other colors indicate other meanings, like celebration.

You are familiar with a purple one, emblazoned with the crest of the Sumo Kyokai (Association), that hangs above the dohyo during honbasho. There is a similar one for the Sumo Renmei (Federation) and this picture of Ekoin temple. The purple indicates the presence of something pure and sacred inside the curtain.

If you want to see the one for the Sumo Renmei, see below. This is from Kokugikan when they were hosting a middle school championship. The mizuhikimaku for those events is this cool claw-looking symbol for the Renmei. To be honest, it is probably barely discernable in that tiny picture, though. But next time you see a sumo event, check the curtain for which crest is on it. If it’s a sakura, that’s the Kyokai.

As you leave the temple, walk to your right and go behind the building next door with the Seven Eleven. Underneath the dozens of parked bicycles, you will notice a metal circle. That is the location of the old dohyo. When there is new construction in the area, like this apartment building, the construction teams often find remnants of the old venue.

I will sprinkle future posts with more pictures that I took, as well as of the ukiyo-e which were provided to us by the good folks at Ekoin.

Jūshoku

A word about the head of the temple, Honda Masataka. He is a very warm, engaging, knowledgeable guy, and particularly eager to discuss the history of the temple and its relationship to sumo. I encourage everyone to check out the temple. For those of you who speak Japanese there is a bit more outreach available. He is hosting events there open to the public for 500 or 1000-en.

My Japanese language skills are far from proficient so my wife was my translator. I must say she was thrilled to learn more about the history and significance of a place so close to her home. She’d been a bit nervous going to the interview. After we arrived, she was briefly freaked out when the assistant said she would return with “Jūshoku,” but he put her at ease very quickly.

Closing

In sum, I think sumo fans would like to add Ekoin Temple as an attraction on their pilgrimages to Ryogoku. They also have this amazing gallery online. Those of you who are amateur sumo enthusiasts — or even just fat bloggers with shirts that are a size or two too small — may want to pray for strength at the Chikarazuka. Strolling around the grounds is very peaceful and there is a lot of very interesting things to see. There is a decent amount of signage and materials in English. Leave comments if you have any questions.